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Bronte Beach: Sydney's best-kept secret

Had enough of the hustle and bustle of Bondi? Make like the locals and head south to Bronte
 By Ian Lloyd Neubauer 16 October, 2012  
Forget Bondi and head for Bronte, mate.

Every year in October and November, half a million people follow the epic coastal walk from Bondi to neighboring Tamarama Beach for Sculpture by the Sea, the world’s largest free outdoor sculpture exhibition.

Yet only a trickle continues to the next cove -- breathtaking Bronte Beach -- Sydney’s best-kept outdoor space and its best-kept secret.

“I have traveled to more than 50 countries, I’ve lived in the US, in Europe and I’m yet to find a place that has the same special combination as Bronte,” says resident and author Nigel Marsh.

“It’s got one of the most beautiful beaches in the world but it is only 15 minutes’ drive from the heart a major city and it’s got beautiful weather all year round.

“Every day spent away from Bronte is a wasted one.”

受夠了擁擠的 Bondi海灘了嗎? 跟著本地人往南邊的Bronte吧!

別管Bondi 快來Bronte吧,老兄!

每年的十月十一月,有近50萬人沿著如詩畫般的海岸步道,從Bondi海灘到鄰近的Tamarama海灘,為的是參加海洋雕塑節-世界最大的免費戶外雕塑展。但只有一小部份人會繼續往下到下一隩--令人屏息的Bronte海灘--雪梨私藏的世外桃源。

"我去過50個以上的國家遊歷,住過美國、歐洲、但我仍在找尋一個像Bronte海灘一樣特別的地方" 一位居民也是作家的Nigel Marsh這麼說。

"它是世上最美麗的沙灘之一,從市中心過去卻只要15分鐘車程,而且終年氣候宜人"

"不花在Bronte海灘的任何一天都是浪費的"

Let your stomach guide you

One of the best ways to discover Bronte is through its culinary offerings. Traditionally, this was limited to greasy takeaway joints on Bronte Road and McPherson Street -- the suburb’s two retail hubs.

But today Bronte is home to some of Sydney’s most-talked-about eateries.

Starting in the suburb’s northeast quarter, on the corners of Belgrave and Murray Streets, are two relative newcomers that are already Bronte institutions.

The first is Iggy’s Bread of the World. Since the day it opened in 2008, locals have been lining up here to buy naturally fermented, artisanal sourdough bagels, baguettes and focaccias that usually sell out before noon.

“We had a bakery in the United States, but because of the politics my husband and I thought we’d get away,” says co-owner Ludmilla Ivanovic.

“We came to Sydney to visit old friends, discovered Bronte and fell in love with it: the sunrise, the sunsets, the beach, the pool, the village. There is nothing imperfect about Bronte.”

跟著你的胃走吧

發掘Bronte的一個好方法,當然是透過當地的美食。以往,你只能在Bronte路和McPherson街的路口,一些市郊的小賣店,吃到一些油膩膩的外帶食物。不過現在的Bronte可是雪梨許多為人津津樂道的餐廳的大本營了。

從郊區的東北邊開始,在Belgrave和Murray街的轉角,兩間算來比較新進的店,卻已經成了Bronte代表

首先是Iggy's Bread of the World. 從2008年開張,天然酵母發酵的手工貝果、法式長棍麵包、及佛卡夏,就一直是當地居民大排長龍購買的搶手貨,而且通常中午前就被搶購一空了。

"我們之前在美國開了間麵包店,但是因為政府政策的關係,我和先生覺得我們還是走為上策" 合夥老闆Ludmilla Ivanovic這麼說。

"在雪梨拜訪老朋友時,我們發現了Bronte,隨即就愛上它了:它的日出、日落、海灘、水池和小鎮。所有東西都是那麼完美的!"

Across the street is Favoloso Café.

From Fiat kitchen clocks to Limoncello aprons, to the prosciutto and marinated eggplant at the antipasto bar, to the Pasta alla Norma and panini lunchtime favorites, Favoloso stakes its claim as Bronte’s Little Italy.

“When I opened in 2005, it was a huge risk because the agents were having trouble leasing the space,” says owner Christiane Pinzone.

“But the reception has been so positive. I wanted to be part of a community -- not a shopping center -- and I found one.”

街的對面是Favoloso咖啡廳

從飛雅特牌廚房鐘到Limoncello牌圍裙、點心吧的義式火腿和醃茄子、alla Norma義大利麵和熱門的午餐帕尼尼,Favoloso,立下了他"Bronte的小義大利"的招牌。

"2005年開張的時候,因為房子有些租約上的麻煩,使我面臨了很大的風險" 店老闆Christiane Pinzone說

"但人們的接待(?)實在太熱情了。我不想僅僅是開個購物中心,我希望我的店能夠是社區的一份子,而我找到了這裡"

For food that surpasses even Favoloso’s high standards, head up to Bronte Road Bistro on, naturally, Bronte Road.

An intimate French restaurant set in an atrium-like dining room and tropical garden, it’s run by husband and wife team Stewart and Jessica Parsons.

Everything these two serve is exceptional in terms of presentation and flavor -- from their shaved cabbage, Persian feta, pea-and-mint salad that tastes like coleslaw for millionaires, to a steak frites (steak and fries) cooked to perfection, through to bread supplied by Iggy’s with Café de Paris butter.

如果你想要比Favoloso還威的食物的話,請到Bronte Road小酒館,它就位在Bronte路上,廢話。

由Parsons夫妻檔經營的貼心法式餐廳,有著中庭式的餐廳和熱帶花園。

不管他們端出什麼東西,用看的、用嚐的都是一樣讚!像是專門給百萬富翁吃的涼拌沙拉-菲達起司高麗菜絲佐薄荷青豆、到烹調到完美極致的牛排和薯條、當然還有Iggy's提供的麵包和Cafe de Paris的牛油。

Also on Bronte Road is Vacanza Pizza. Vacanza make old-school, crispy-crust, wood-fired pizzas with premium-quality toppings like triple-smoked ham, provolone and San Marzano tomatoes.

The service is a little hit-and-miss, so unless you’re a huge “Fawlty Towers fan, order takeaway instead.

同樣在Bronte Rd.上的還有Vacanza 披薩。Vacanza披薩供應您經典脆皮柴燒披薩,配上一流品質的配料,像是重煙燻火腿、provolone乾酪、和San Marzano的蕃茄。但要品嘗到他們的服務還得要碰碰運氣,除非你是"Fawlty Towers"這部喜劇的大粉絲,不然還是請外帶吧。

 Iggy’s Bread of the World, 49 Belgrave St., Bronte +61 (0) 2 9369 1650; open Tuesday-Sunday, 7 a.m. until sold out; www.iggysbread.com

Favoloso Café, Deli, Store, 43-45 Belgrave St., Bronte +61 (0) 413 155 517; open Monday-Sunday, 7 a.m.-4p.m.; www.favoloso.com.au

Bronte Road Bistro, 282 Bronte Road, Charing Cross, +61 (0) 2 9389 3028; open Tuesday-Saturday, 6 p.m.-10 p.m., Thursday-Saturday, noon-3 p.m.; www.bronteroadbistro.com

Vacanza Pizza, 261 Bronte Road, Charing Cross Deli, +61 (0) 2 9090 2089; open Tuesday-Sunday, 5 p.m.-late; www.vacanzapizzeria.com.au

The enchanted foresta魔幻森林

Follow Bronte Road down toward the beach to Bronte House, a Gothic pile dating from 1845 from which the suburb derives its name.

Named in honor of Britain's Lord Horatio Nelson, who was also Duke of the Sicilian town of Bronte, this heritage-listed property is home to one of Australia’s finest colonial gardens, with grassed terraces, ponds, flower beds, arches, fountains, a mini rainforest and elaborate rockery gardens.

Bronte House is owned by the local council and leased to private tenants, who open it up to the public four weekends a year.

The next open day falls on November 24.

Bronte House backs on to Bronte Gully, the suburb’s own enchanted forest.

To get there, walk back along Bronte Road and up Murray Street until you reach a gap in the apartment buildings, where you can see straight to the ocean.

On your left is a moss-grown stairway that descends along a series of waterfalls and rock pools marking the start of Bronte Creek.

Every second Sunday, members of the Bronte Gully Bushcare Group get together to remove weeds, clear rubbish, build terraces, plant native species -- whatever it takes to maintain its fairytale look.

Blue Tongue Lizards are plentiful here, while kookaburras and other birdlife can seen hanging about Wattle, Banksia and Giant Honey Myrtle trees.

And the best time to see it is right now, in spring, when the entire valley is carpeted in bright yellow Guinea Flowers.

A walking track through the gully leads to the wide, green lawns of Bronte Park, where coin-operated barbecues, children’s playgrounds and shaded picnic gazebos buzz with life and laughter on weekends.

順著Bronte路往下到海灘邊的Bronte小屋,是一棟可追溯到1845年的哥德式建築,這地區的名稱便由此而來。

此小屋的命名,是為紀念一位來自Bronte西西里小鎮的英國貴族的Horatio Nelson來的。

此歷史遺產可是澳洲最優秀的殖民花園之一,有著草坪、池塘、花壇、拱門、噴泉、一個小型的熱帶雨林以及精雕細琢的花園。

Bronte小屋現在是由地方議會所擁有,但出租給私人使用,一年會有四個週末開放給大眾參觀,下次的開放日將在11月24日。

Bronte小屋背後緊鄰著市郊的魔幻森林--Bronte山谷。

要到那的話,請回到Bronte路上一直到Murray街,直到你可以從兩棟公寓中間的空隙直接看到大海,那邊就是了。

在你左邊的長滿青苔、順著瀑布和池塘往下走的階梯,就是帶我們到Bronte小溪的源頭的指標。

每月第二個周日,Bronte谷灌木照護協會的成員們會聚在一起拔拔草、清清垃圾、重建草皮、種些本地的植物,來維持它夢幻般的面貌。

這邊到處都可見藍舌蜥蜴,也可以看到笑翠鳥和其他各種鳥類,在金合歡、山龍眼、和桃金娘樹(?)的枝頭尖跳來盪去

現在,在春天,整個山谷都佈滿著金黃色的幾內亞花(?),正是最佳的觀賞時機

穿越山谷的步道,會帶你到有著大片的綠色草皮的Bronte公園,公園裡有著要投錢的烤肉檯、小孩的運動場、還有遮蔭的涼亭,在週末總是充滿著笑鬧聲。

Unlike Bondi and other Sydney beaches, where shops and apartments have been built right up to their promenades, Bronte Park provides a public bulwark that gives the place a “holiday by the seaside” feel.

There are shops here, but they’re tucked away on a low-rise strip south of the beach.

For the ultimate Sydney breakfast experience, with panoramic ocean views and beautiful people on the side, visit any of the trendy cafés on this strip.

They all make a great coffee and bacon and eggs, though for something fancier, the Three Blue Ducks at the end of the strip has been recognized by The Sydney Morning Herald as one of the city’s best restaurants.

Think baked eggs with chorizo, avocado toast or orange pancakes with yoghurt. And the bread? Iggy’s, of course.

不像Bondi海灘或雪梨的其他海灘,騎樓都是被店家和公寓佔據的。Bronte公園就像是替這有著"假日的海邊"感覺的地方,提供了一個屏障。這裡當然也是有店家的,但是都被藏在海灘南邊的一小塊了。

您若是要體驗超級無敵海景雪梨早餐,同時把旁邊的俊男美女也一覽無遺的話,就隨便到這邊任何一間咖啡店看看吧。

每間都有著很棒的咖啡培根蛋,不過你要更酷炫的東西的話,在此區盡頭的Three Blue Ducks更是被雪梨先鋒早報評為雪梨最佳餐廳之一。

試著想想這畫面:香腸烤蛋、酪梨風味吐司、或是橙醬煎餅佐優格。至於麵包,當然還是Iggy的啦。

 

Bronte House, Bronte Road, Bronte; www.brontehouse.com

Bronte Gully Bushcare Group, +61 (0) 2 9386 7915;www.brontebushcare.org.au

Three Blue Ducks, 141 Macpherson St., Bronte, +61 (0) 2 9389 0010; open Tuesday-Sunday, 7 a.m.-11 p.m;www.threeblueducks.com

The beach

海灘

“The beach itself is not large,” reads a real-estate posting for Bronte, dated 1915. “And for this reason, the excellent and enjoyable bathing and surfing it affords is double appreciated for the additional selectness and privacy in consequence.”

It may small -- about a quarter the size of Bondi -- but Bronte Beach packs a mighty punch.

The waves are not suited for novice swimmers or surfers -- it’s rated as a seven on the scale of beach safety from one to 10.

However, there are a number of relatively safe places to swim, starting at the Bronte Baths at the south end of the beach.

Established in 1887, it has five 30-meter swimming lanes and a large shallow area sheltered by a rock face that kids love leaping from.

"海灘本身並不大"一個1915年的不動產廣告上這樣說."但也就因為這原因,在這裡游泳、衝浪本來就已經很令人愉悅了,因為這私密不為人知的關係,更加令人讚賞"

它可能不大--大約Bondi的1/4大而已--但是Bronte海灘可也是不簡單的。這裡的海浪並不適合初學者游泳或衝浪,用1~10來說的危險等級,它可是第七級的。

不過也是有些比較安全的地方可以游泳,像是海灘南邊的Bronte Baths。

1887年建造的Bronte Baths,有五條30米的水道,還有一大片岩石表面的淺灘區,小鬼們最喜歡從這裡往水裡跳。

Adjacent to the Baths is the Bronte Bogey Hole -- a lagoon made of rings of rocks that’s a favorite among mums and toddlers, who spend hours exploring its nooks and crannies.

On the other end of the age spectrum, Bronte’s most-tanned senior citizens spend their summers sunbaking on the benches and lawn in front of the changing rooms, their skin crisping under the southern sun.

A few of them are lifelong member of the Bronte Surf Lifesaving Club, whose headquarters lie on the northern end of the beach.

泳池旁邊是Bronte Bogey Hole,有著一環一環的石頭的潟湖,媽媽帶著小朋友們忙著在石頭縫隙間探險。

除了小屁孩們,Bronte曬的最黑的老人家們,正在更衣室前長椅和草坪上做著他們的日光浴、把他們的皮膚烤的脆脆的咧。

他們裡頭還有一些人還是總部位在海灘北邊的Bronte衝浪救生俱樂部的終身會員。

Throughout the summer and on sunny weekends, they can be seen patrolling a flagged swimming area at the center of the beach -- ergo, the great Aussie idiom “swim between the flags.”

Established in 1903, the Bronte Surf Life Saving Club claims to be the home of surf lifesaving in Australia and the oldest continually operating surf club in the world.

The club’s biggest day of the year falls on the first Sunday of December, when the Bondi to Bronte Ocean Swim hits town.

This year, 2,500 swimmers from will tackle the 2.4-kilometer course for a chance at saltwater glory and to join the massive post-race celebration in Bronte Park featuring live music, street food and children’s rides.

“In the last few years, conditions have been rough and the swim’s been quite a challenge,” says event organizer Kate Hughes.

“But we’ve had a couple of sparkling weekends in spring, so this year is shaping up to be an easy swim on a clear, blue day. Exactly what Bronte is known for.”

整個夏天或是晴朗的週末,你都可以在海灘上用旗子劃分的游泳戲水區--也是澳洲人常說的"在旗子間游泳"(?)的由來--看到他們在巡邏。1903年成立的Bronte衝浪救生俱樂部,是澳洲衝浪俱樂部的鼻祖,也是現今世界上仍在營運的最老的衝浪俱樂部。俱樂部的大日子是12月的第一個禮拜天,正是鎮上舉辦Bondi到Bronte大海泳的時候。

今年,一共有2500位泳者要來挑戰這2.4公里的海泳賽,當然也少不了賽後在Bronte公園裡,一堆現場音樂、小吃、還有遊樂設施的慶典囉!

"過去幾年環境有點糟糕,要想游個泳都變的更挑戰了" 活動發起人Kate Hughes說道。

"不過今年春天有幾個周末天氣還蠻不賴的,今年應該可以順利的Bronte著名的在晴空下盡情游泳了!"

To enter the Bondi to Bronte Ocean Swim, download an entry form fromwww.bonditobronte.com.au. Entrance costs $40 (US$42) with all funds donated to the Kids' Cancer Project.

The Bronte Surf Life Saving Club welcomes new members. Fees are $350 for the first year and $80 for subsequent years, which includes a Bronze Medallion Surf Life Saving Course. Apply online atwww.brontesurfclub.com.au

 

整篇英文文章來自於 CNN這裡

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